MASTERS OF DISASTERS
2026 RULES
LIMITED WELD FULLSIZE
1. All cars MUST be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules. NO IMP parts allowed. 03
and newer MUST remain stock and ONLY stock oem parts allowed.
2. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
3. All decking in station wagons MUST be removed!!!
4. No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or Doubled tires are OK!!! Valve stem protectors
are OK. Tires MAY be screwed to rims. 1” bead savers are allowed.
5. Driver MUST wear a fire coat or non-flammable jacket while driving in event.
6. Driver MUST have safety glasses or face shield.
7. You MUST use a radiator NO RAD barrels allowed and it must be in stock location. All cars
MUST have working brakes.
8. All trailer hitches and braces MUST be removed.
9. Original gas tanks MUST be removed. You may use a boat tank or well made fuel cell and it
must be properly secured (NO BUNGIES) and covered.
NO gas cans, NO Plastic gas tanks. Place gas tank behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car
where the back seat use to be.
10. Transmission coolers ARE allowed, but MUST BE safe and properly secured (NO BUNGIES).
11. Batteries MUST be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It MUST BE
properly secured and covered (NO BUNGIES -and can only be connected to the floor, NO place
else).
12. You MUST have a roof sign 15”x 15” with car number on it for judging and recognition of
car.
Car building:
1. NO welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame. The only welding allowed is in
the below rules. IF your car is found with any weld,
other then what’s allowed, YOU WILL NOT RUN!!
2. Doors may be chained, wired, bolted, cabled or welded shut and must be sheet metal to
sheet metal. Welding will be Outside of doors only. You may weld 5 inches, skip 5 inches, weld
5 inches, etc. Use NO bigger than 3 inch wide x 3/8” thick material for welding doors shut.
Drivers door only may be weld shut inside and outside solidly with no bigger then 3” strap
material.
3. For driver’s protection, YOU MUST weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost,
NO bigger then 6” material. It can be an X, you may also have a bar across your dash, you may
connect the dash bar to bars behind seat across the inside of front door only, you may also
weld your steering column in, you can also weld a plate across the driver’s door NOT to exceed
6 inches past each seam. You may have a roll over bar behind the seat, which may be welded to
the top of the frame or the floor and welded or bolted to the roof – no kickers going to the back
or front of the car. Back of cage including roll bar, can only be in front of body mount behind
back seat. Mopars can only be in front of spring mount. You will be allowed 2- 4x4x¼” down
bars on the inside on driver’s and passenger’s door going down from the inside cross bar. Down
bars must be behind inside of front door interior seam or will be cut out. Welded to top of
frame ONLY, AND NO ADDED METAL!!!!
GAS TANK PROTECTOR: must be NO wider then 24inches across the back- 6inch tall on back
with 1 inch gap between all sheet metal around back side of gas tank protector. Tank Protector
can only be attached to back seat bar with nothing attaching up or down to body/frame/ cage.
You MAY gusset to back seat bar only. MUST be 4 inches off floor and stay BELOW where
speaker deck attaches to floor! You are allowed a loop up off your gas tanks protector, but
must be straight up and not angled. Nothing higher up then 4 inches above gas tank. Loop can’t
attach to anything but the tank protector.
NO BACK WINDOW BAR ALLOWED.
******YOU MUST HAVE A BAR/PIPE FROM DOOR POST TO DOOR POST WELDED MINIMUM, IN
ORDER TO RUN.
Bumpers: Bumpers are interchangeable. Any Automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be
used on any car. Homemade bumpers will be allowed, you can only use a flat square or round
tube NO bigger than 5 inches (5x5 square or 5inch round). You may use a replica. Tubing
CANNOT be any wider than the car fenders, And MUST remain flat. You may trim bumper ends
or fold them around. Bumpers and brackets may be welded solid. Bracket are interchangeable
from car to car. If you don’t use the factory front brackets to the car, YOU WILL BE LIMITED to a
14 inch bracket from end of frame. Brackets CAN NOT be longer than 14 inches in length or can
be shortened but you CAN’T stretch out brackets to make longer. If you don’t use a factory
bumper bracket you may use a 4inch X 14 inch long 3/8 thick flat plate. This plate MUST BE
welded to the bumper. The bumper plate can only be welded on the outside of the frame and
can only follow the frame, NO shaping OR wrap of plate. Bumpers may be stuffed inside of
Original bumper only. Bracket can be welded solid but can ONLY be welded to 1 side of the
frame, don’t wrap bracket unless it came out factory that way. NO Brackets may be stuffed
inside of the frame rail.
You may have 4 spots wire or 3/8 chain from front bumper to radiator support, 4 spots from
rear bumper to trunk lid. Front brackets on front only!!! Front Bumpers can NOT be any higher
than 30 inches from top center. Rear Bumpers can NOT be lower than 18 Inches from top
center of bumper. Frame must remain straight for bumper measurement. This rule is to help
cut down of the issue of roll over and safety of this issue.
HOOD/TRUNKS: **Hoods MUST HAVE at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. You
will be allowed 8 spots to hold the hood down (bolts, chain or wire); you MUST have at least 4
spots holding hood down- hood hinges don’t count! You may have up to 1” all thread –2 may
be used from the hood down to the
frame, but MUST GO THROUGH the front body mounts. Chrysler products may run all thread
behind radiator support down to top of frame and be welded to top of frame with NO added
material – All thread may pass thru frame. Hood hold down spots MUST BE sheet metal to
sheet metal only. Hood must be open for inspection. Plates for hood bolts CAN NOT exceed
5x5x1/2 inch. Hood bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter. Only allowed 8 spots total to hold
down hood chain- wire- bolts- etc. You are allowed 12- 3/8” blots to bolt hood skins together.
You can fold hoods or trunk decks over but 50% of the hood or trunk lid must be in factory
location. Dishing of the trunk is allowed but MUST be 6 inch off floor. Tucking of roofs are
allowed but only on factory coil spring wagons. Can tuck roof to top of rear quarter panels. You
may chain/wire roof to top of rear quarter panels in 2 spots on each side.
2 - 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to frame, if you go threw the body mount hole thru
the frame you MUST have a spacer between body and frame, otherwise you may weld to the
side of the frame only with all-thread. You may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid
and may go around the frame with the wire. CAN’T DO BOTH. Trunk lids and tailgates may be
welded but only in factory location. NO welding of tucked area or NO welding of sheet metal
folded over trunk lid. You can weld 5 inches skip 5 inches using no bigger than 3 inch wide
materials.
BODY MOUNTS:
11. Body mounts MUST remain stock, and NO adding of body mounts. You can replace the bolt
with ½ inch bolt, bolt must be up inside of frame as factory with nothing up inside frame except
1- 2X2X1/4” thick washer then a nut and a 2X2X1/4” thick washer on top of floor. YOU may use
a solid mount between body and frame. The mount spacer can’t be bigger than 2X2 and must
be 1 ¼” tall pipe or tubing. NO welding of body mount spacers. Nothing can’t act like a gusset of
any kind!! Radiator support spacer can be welded either to top of frame or to bottom of
radiator support body/sheet metal. If you use all-thread in hood or trunk, the body mount
rubber may be replaced with a steel body mount same thickness as factory rubber mount- 1 ¼
inch
Radiator support spacer CAN NOT be any taller than 6 inches.
SUSPENSION:
Suspension MUST be all stock. Leaf springs MUST be stock, Stock springs ONLY! 2 inch stagger
in back of rear end and a 1 inch stagger on the front of rearend on all leaf springs. You can put
spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height. You can loop chain or wire from rear end or
springs to frame in 2 spots on each side. No bigger then #9 wire or 3/8”chain or cable may be
used. You may double your coil springs. Leaf spring cars will be allowed 6 clamps on each spring
pack. The clamps may be home-made. Home-made clamps CAN NOT be larger than 2 inch wide
by 5 inches long. NO more than 9 leaf springs in any car! This includes tow package springs!
Front A-arms will be allow 2 - 2” X 2” straps. 1 strap on front side of A-arm and 1- strap on back
side of A-arm. Must be welded to the SIDE of the frame only. Straps can be ¼” thick. You may
use 1 loop of 3/8” chain around frame and over A-arm. No welding. Not to be excessive with
loop of chain as the loop of chain can only be on 1 side of the A-arm!
STEERING:
Tie rods, A arms, Ball joints and all other steering / suspension MUST REMAIN STOCK.
Steering column may be changed to aftermarket shafts, steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, .Rear end control arms may be replaced with Tubing 3/8 walled. Tubing control arms must be mounted with a bolt no
larger than ½ size. Tubing control arms cannot be welded in, no relocating of mounting brackets, etc. 98-02 fords may use
a bolt in upper tray for top control arms or weld a 3x3 square tube to factory tray to bolt upper control arms too and may
weld a factory bottom bracket or 3X3 square tube on the driveshaft side of frame in factory location for lower control arms.
You may use any braced rear end along with 8 lug rear ends. After market axles and axle savers may be used as well.
You can use a spool inside the rear end to make posi-track. You can swap out rear ends from a different car, but must
mount to factory rear brackets of the car only. You may change rears from one car to another. Gm to ford, Ford to Gm,
Mopar to Gm, etc. Rear end or Rear end bracing may NOT act like a gusset to frame or car! Head Inspector will have final
say on this!
etc ARE allowed. May change steering but MUST bolt to factory steering parts. 03 AND NEWER
You may swap spindles, a arms ONLY a direct fit, NO homemade parts or brackets. MUST be
factory OEM parts from a legal car. MUST run factory rack and pinion steering.
ENGINE MOUNTING:
Engine mounts may be welded to engine cradle. Engine must be mounted in stock location. You
may use a front lower engine cradle mount to mount your engine. Motor mount pads may have
one bolt hole in cross member and 8” of weld on frame, MUST be a flat plate NO wider then 8”
x 3/8 inch think,( plate may not wrap frame MUST sit on top and be between cradle bolts. This
plate is for you to weld your lower mount to).
NO full cradle will be allowed!!!
Use motor and tranny of choice, 03 and NEWER MUST use factory aluminum cross member.
Motor MUST be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place
(don’t strengthen the frame). You MUST use a factory cross member or a 2” X 2” tubing welded
to frame with nothing else added for mounting transmission. 03 and NEWER MUST use
factory aluminum cross member. NO shaping of cross members and NO using cross member as
a gusset!! This can be out of another car. Tranny cross members must mount in factory location
for the car only! NO Tranny Braces, NO steel bells or steel tail housings.
You may have 2-3/8” chains from the motor head to frame and you may weld 1 link of chain to
top of frame under motor only next to A-arm on front side of motor.
Fenders:
You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may also be bolted together with 12-3/8”
bolts or less. The rear quarter panel is considered part of the rear fender.
For safety, ** Hardtop cars may have a 4 inch wide strap welded at the door post to the roof.
You MUST have 2 bars, wires or chains in windshield from roof to dash for safety reasons.
Misc.:
You can run shifter through floor and you can have a switch panel. You may also have a hand
throttle. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must be hooked up to your ignition switch –
so when your car shuts off – it shuts off.
You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire in each window opening and may go to the frame.
No welding washers around holes on car body. You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail
underneath back of car, behind rear-end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain/cable in 1
spot only. This must go around the frame, this CAN NOT be bolted to the frame.
NO Distributor cap protectors or Full cradles!! YOU are allowed a distributor clamp, front lower
cradle and pulley protector, sway bar must NOT be in contact with pulley protector at anytime.
Gas tank protector are allowed, no wider than 24 inches, must be at least 2” away from rear
sheet metal. It must
run straight back from rear seat bar in center of car and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tank can’t
be connected to protector unless gas tank is mounted to top of protector and not to floor.
Protector must be free floating- NOT connected to anything but back bar! Aftermarket gas
pedal and brake pedals are allowed as long as not used to re-enforce car!!!! Must be mounted
to cage or body. Not to frame or used as a gusset to reinforce the car in any way.
No frame shaping except to beating in the sides only of rear arches over tires. Nothing else.
Body shaping is allowed but NO double rolling of body lines. No bolting, welding, wiring, etc of
body lines. Trunk can be dished but MUST be 6” off the floor.
You must have 2 bars or wires from roof to dash in windshield for safety. Window bars can only
be 3 inches wide with 5 inches on roof and 5 inches on dash.
Sliding Drive shafts ARE allowed along with a pinion brake. Pinion Brake can only have 1 strap
welded to rear end tubes on each side but must be welded next to center carrier only!! No
gussets off straps!!
Cold bending of frames will be allowed, YOU MAY NOT plate where you cold bent frame!
You may cut of front frame rails, but the factory body mount bracket/hole in frame must be
there completely. No relocating any part of frame, suspension, body mounts, etc.
Body creasing is allowed, no double rolling of creases. Trunks can be dished but must be able to
see inside trunk area completely.
RUST REPAIR & FRAME REPAIR:
You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only. Leave the rust in place and repair
over it. Rusted out frames may be repaired with 3/16 inch or less. You are allowed to weld the
patch 2 inches past the rusted out area, leave the rust in place.
Re-stubbing of frames must be same make/model. 70’s to 70’s, 80’s to 80’s, etc. Gm to Gm,
Mopar to Mopar, etc. NO IMP SUBS, No caddy frames or stubs under NON Caddy cars!!!!!! You
will be allowed to butt weld the frame together then wrap the frame where welded with a 1
inch wide 1/8th inch strap completely around the weld. No cutting of frame or frame seams
and re-weld frame in place as a repair!!! Must be behind tranny cross member.
Bent frames only may be repaired with 4” X 6”- 1/4” thick flat plate. You are only allowed 6
plates total on driver’s and 6 total of Passenger’s side of car. This counts for the front and rear
of car together. The plates may be welded solid and can be rolled over to 2 side to the frame
but must remain flat with no shaping of plates. You must have a 1/2 inch hole in the patch. You
can only repair the frame once in each place. No re-patching or layering of patches. Plates must
have a 1” space between plates. If you are found with a plate on a NON-BENT area, you’ll have
to cut all repair plates off in order to run event.
Be fair to us. It’s driver’s responsibility to show inspectors the bend in the frame!
No repairs at the events! You must repair after event and then run another event. Fresh cars
will be allowed 2- repair plates to start . 2 plates on each side of the car total.
Remember if it don’t say you can do it then don’t. Call first with any questions: Call Josh @
(641)387-9684 IF NO ANSWER LEAVE A MESSAGE. NO MESSAGE NO CALL BACK.